{"id":41394,"date":"2023-01-17T11:10:24","date_gmt":"2023-01-17T11:10:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/?p=41394"},"modified":"2023-07-11T13:53:01","modified_gmt":"2023-07-11T12:53:01","slug":"our-friends-in-the-north","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/our-friends-in-the-north\/","title":{"rendered":"Our Friends in the North"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>From my home in Edinburgh, the north of France would at first glance seem a lengthy excursion, especially by train. Well, it\u2019s not. After boarding at the Scottish capital\u2019s Waverley Station at breakfast time, by late afternoon I was stepping out at Lille\u2019s Euro station and strolling to my hotel in bright sunshine. The idea of \u2018slow\u2019 travel as a relaxing and eco-friendly alternative to air travel is gaining ground with travellers who value the planet, with the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.byway.travel\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong>Byway<\/strong><\/a> travel company at the forefront of creating alternative options to explore by train, boat, bus or bike.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41408\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41408\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41408 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Place-Francois-Mitterand-with-Yayoi-Kusama-Les-Tulipes-de-Shangri-La-Lille.jpg\" alt=\"Place Francois Mitterand with Yayoi Kusama, 'Les Tulipes de Shangri-La' Lille\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41408\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41408 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Place-Francois-Mitterand-with-Yayoi-Kusama-Les-Tulipes-de-Shangri-La-Lille.jpg\" alt=\"Place Francois Mitterand with Yayoi Kusama, 'Les Tulipes de Shangri-La' Lille\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Place-Francois-Mitterand-with-Yayoi-Kusama-Les-Tulipes-de-Shangri-La-Lille.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Place-Francois-Mitterand-with-Yayoi-Kusama-Les-Tulipes-de-Shangri-La-Lille-480x360.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Place-Francois-Mitterand-with-Yayoi-Kusama-Les-Tulipes-de-Shangri-La-Lille-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Place-Francois-Mitterand-with-Yayoi-Kusama-Les-Tulipes-de-Shangri-La-Lille-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Place-Francois-Mitterand-with-Yayoi-Kusama-Les-Tulipes-de-Shangri-La-Lille-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Adjoining Lille&#8217;s Euro-station, Place Francois Mitterand with Yayoi Kusama, &#8216;Les Tulipes de Shangri-La&#8217;.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>For <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/trip.byway.travel\/journey-guide\/54f5c4ea-8987-4f32-b241-721da29d303e\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">my itinerary<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0<em>[click to view]<\/em> it would be difficult to make a case for first flying from Scotland to London, when you take into account the need to check in at the airport two hours before departure, long security queues, excessive shopping and catering prices, cramped seating en route, the wait at the baggage carousel to be reunited with your luggage, then the train or bus ride into the city. Instead, as the 1980s tv ad used to say, why not let the train take the strain? My one transfer, from London King\u2019s Cross to St Pancras International next door for my Eurostar connection, took a matter of minutes. I even met a couple from Kent, en route to a concert in Lille, where they prefer the concert hall to London\u2019s O2! It helps that the trains bound along at nearly 200mph.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Lille<\/strong><br \/>\nFrance\u2019s charms are legendary, including mediaeval cities, classical art museums and a fascinating history. It\u2019s all right there in <strong>Hauts-de-France<\/strong>, where a direct connection from the UK to its capital, <strong>Lille<\/strong>, allows visitors to enjoy its bustling centre, with myriad restaurants, hotels, squares and parkland.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41404\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41404\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41404 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Claude-Monet-Le-Parlement-de-Londres-1904-oil-on-canvas.jpg\" alt=\"Claude Monet, 'Le Parlement de Londres', 1904, oil on canvas\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1145\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41404\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41404 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Claude-Monet-Le-Parlement-de-Londres-1904-oil-on-canvas.jpg\" alt=\"Claude Monet, 'Le Parlement de Londres', 1904, oil on canvas\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1145\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Claude-Monet-Le-Parlement-de-Londres-1904-oil-on-canvas.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Claude-Monet-Le-Parlement-de-Londres-1904-oil-on-canvas-480x458.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Claude-Monet-Le-Parlement-de-Londres-1904-oil-on-canvas-1024x977.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Claude-Monet-Le-Parlement-de-Londres-1904-oil-on-canvas-150x143.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Claude-Monet-Le-Parlement-de-Londres-1904-oil-on-canvas-768x733.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Claude Monet, &#8216;Le Parlement de Londres&#8217;, 1904, oil on canvas<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41405\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41405\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41405 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Pablo-Picasso-Olga-au-Col-de-Fourrure-1923-oil-on-canvas.jpg\" alt=\"Pablo Picasso, 'Olga au Col de Fourrure', 1923, oil on canvas\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1287\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41405\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41405 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Pablo-Picasso-Olga-au-Col-de-Fourrure-1923-oil-on-canvas.jpg\" alt=\"Pablo Picasso, 'Olga au Col de Fourrure', 1923, oil on canvas\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1287\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Pablo-Picasso-Olga-au-Col-de-Fourrure-1923-oil-on-canvas.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Pablo-Picasso-Olga-au-Col-de-Fourrure-1923-oil-on-canvas-480x515.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Pablo-Picasso-Olga-au-Col-de-Fourrure-1923-oil-on-canvas-1024x1098.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Pablo-Picasso-Olga-au-Col-de-Fourrure-1923-oil-on-canvas-140x150.jpg 140w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Pablo-Picasso-Olga-au-Col-de-Fourrure-1923-oil-on-canvas-768x824.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Pablo Picasso, &#8216;Olga au Col de Fourrure&#8217;, 1923, oil on canvas<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Lille also has one of the largest art museums in France, the <strong>Palais des Beaux-Arts de Lille<\/strong>. Purpose-built as a museum under Napoleon I, its collection of fine art and antiquities includes significant works by the likes of Raphael, Donatello, Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Goya, El Greco, Toulouse-Lautrec, Delacroix, Rubens and Rodin. You can follow a \u2018highlights\u2019 route with audio commentary via a QR code on your phone, tailored to how much time you have available.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41402\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41402\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41402 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Donatello-Le-Festin-dHerode.jpg\" alt=\"Donatello 'Le Festin d'H\u00e9rode'\" width=\"1200\" height=\"874\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41402\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41402 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Donatello-Le-Festin-dHerode.jpg\" alt=\"Donatello 'Le Festin d'H\u00e9rode'\" width=\"1200\" height=\"874\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Donatello-Le-Festin-dHerode.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Donatello-Le-Festin-dHerode-480x350.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Donatello-Le-Festin-dHerode-1024x746.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Donatello-Le-Festin-dHerode-150x109.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Donatello-Le-Festin-dHerode-768x559.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Donatello &#8216;Le Festin d&#8217;H\u00e9rode&#8217; is helpfully lit from the side to show its intricate and pioneering relief-sculpture<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41406\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41406\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41406 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Opera-and-Beffroi-de-la-Chambre-de-Commerce-de-Lille.jpg\" alt=\"Op\u00e9ra and Beffroi de la Chambre de Commerce de Lille\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41406\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41406 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Opera-and-Beffroi-de-la-Chambre-de-Commerce-de-Lille.jpg\" alt=\"Op\u00e9ra and Beffroi de la Chambre de Commerce de Lille\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Opera-and-Beffroi-de-la-Chambre-de-Commerce-de-Lille.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Opera-and-Beffroi-de-la-Chambre-de-Commerce-de-Lille-480x360.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Opera-and-Beffroi-de-la-Chambre-de-Commerce-de-Lille-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Opera-and-Beffroi-de-la-Chambre-de-Commerce-de-Lille-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Opera-and-Beffroi-de-la-Chambre-de-Commerce-de-Lille-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Lille&#8217;s Op\u00e9ra and Beffroi de la Chambre de Commerce<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Small galleries are dotted around Lille\u2019s old town, Vieux Lille, but the quarter\u2019s charm lies in just wandering through its 17th century cobbled streets, taking in the architectural details, the characterful shop fronts and enjoying the convivial, French cafe lifestyle. Look out for that uniquely French car, the Citro\u00ebn Deux-Chevaux, or 2CV, taking tourists around town in open-topped tours, passing the art deco Hotel de Ville (Town Hall), which offers a dizzying panorama from the 104-metre high viewing platform on its belfry. On a clear day you can see for 40 kilometres.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41403\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41403\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41403 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Xavier-Veilhan-Romy-outside-the-Gare-de-Flandres-is-part-of-a-vigorous-public-art-programme-in-Lille.jpg\" alt=\"Xavier Veilhan, 'Romy', outside the Gare de Flandres, is part of a vigorous public art programme in Lille\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41403\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41403 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Xavier-Veilhan-Romy-outside-the-Gare-de-Flandres-is-part-of-a-vigorous-public-art-programme-in-Lille.jpg\" alt=\"Xavier Veilhan, 'Romy', outside the Gare de Flandres, is part of a vigorous public art programme in Lille\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Xavier-Veilhan-Romy-outside-the-Gare-de-Flandres-is-part-of-a-vigorous-public-art-programme-in-Lille.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Xavier-Veilhan-Romy-outside-the-Gare-de-Flandres-is-part-of-a-vigorous-public-art-programme-in-Lille-480x640.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Xavier-Veilhan-Romy-outside-the-Gare-de-Flandres-is-part-of-a-vigorous-public-art-programme-in-Lille-1024x1365.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Xavier-Veilhan-Romy-outside-the-Gare-de-Flandres-is-part-of-a-vigorous-public-art-programme-in-Lille-113x150.jpg 113w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Xavier-Veilhan-Romy-outside-the-Gare-de-Flandres-is-part-of-a-vigorous-public-art-programme-in-Lille-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Xavier-Veilhan-Romy-outside-the-Gare-de-Flandres-is-part-of-a-vigorous-public-art-programme-in-Lille-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Xavier Veilhan, &#8216;Romy&#8217;, outside the Gare de Flandres, is part of a vigorous public art programme in Lille<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Roubaix <\/strong><br \/>\nLille\u2019s driverless metro took me out of town to nearby Roubaix, where the art deco swimming pool has been converted into a major art museum, <strong>La Piscine<\/strong>\u00a0(\u2018Piscine\u2019 is French for swimming pool.) The collection here is also of stellar quality and, although the town was quiet and has enjoyed more prosperous days, the museum is evidently a major visitor draw.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41401\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41401\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41401 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-Piscine-Roubaix.jpg\" alt=\"La Mus\u00e9e Piscine, Roubaix\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41401\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41401 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-Piscine-Roubaix.jpg\" alt=\"La Mus\u00e9e Piscine, Roubaix\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-Piscine-Roubaix.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-Piscine-Roubaix-480x360.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-Piscine-Roubaix-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-Piscine-Roubaix-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-Piscine-Roubaix-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>La Mus\u00e9e Piscine, Roubaix<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Making the most of its elegant architecture, a vestige of the town\u2019s industrial and craft heritage, the building\u2019s central pool reflects its massive, semi-circular stained glass window. There is an especially fascinating section of 20th century sculpture, including the reconstructed atelier of the sculptor Henri Bouchard, and an introduction to the bold statements of the late 20th century \u2018Roubaix School\u2019 of painting.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41400\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41400\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41400 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Jean-Robert-de-Bock-Portrait-of-Roubaix-Painter-Michel-Delporte-1967-oil-on-canvas.jpg\" alt=\"Jean-Robert de Bock, 'Portrait of Roubaix Painter Michel Delporte', 1967, oil on canvas\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1539\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41400\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41400 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Jean-Robert-de-Bock-Portrait-of-Roubaix-Painter-Michel-Delporte-1967-oil-on-canvas.jpg\" alt=\"Jean-Robert de Bock, 'Portrait of Roubaix Painter Michel Delporte', 1967, oil on canvas\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1539\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Jean-Robert-de-Bock-Portrait-of-Roubaix-Painter-Michel-Delporte-1967-oil-on-canvas.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Jean-Robert-de-Bock-Portrait-of-Roubaix-Painter-Michel-Delporte-1967-oil-on-canvas-480x616.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Jean-Robert-de-Bock-Portrait-of-Roubaix-Painter-Michel-Delporte-1967-oil-on-canvas-1024x1313.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Jean-Robert-de-Bock-Portrait-of-Roubaix-Painter-Michel-Delporte-1967-oil-on-canvas-117x150.jpg 117w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Jean-Robert-de-Bock-Portrait-of-Roubaix-Painter-Michel-Delporte-1967-oil-on-canvas-768x985.jpg 768w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Jean-Robert-de-Bock-Portrait-of-Roubaix-Painter-Michel-Delporte-1967-oil-on-canvas-1198x1536.jpg 1198w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Jean-Robert de Bock, &#8216;Portrait of Roubaix Painter Michel Delporte&#8217;, 1967, oil on canvas<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Amiens <\/strong><br \/>\nA two-hour ride south on SNCF, France\u2019s state-owned railway company, brings you to the pretty city of <strong>Amiens<\/strong>, smaller and quieter by comparison to Lille, but with a few aces up its sleeve. Prime among these is its giant, 800-year old <strong>Notre-Dame Cathedral<\/strong> \u2013 much bigger than its namesake in Paris \u2013 which, as well as offering the epitome of cavernous high gothic interiors and dazzling, detailed stained glass, boasts an intricately sculpted western facade.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41414\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41414\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41414 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-east-facade.jpg\" alt=\"Amiens' Notre-Dame, west facade\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41414\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41414 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-east-facade.jpg\" alt=\"Amiens' Notre-Dame, west facade\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-east-facade.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-east-facade-480x640.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-east-facade-1024x1365.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-east-facade-113x150.jpg 113w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-east-facade-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-east-facade-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Amiens&#8217; Notre-Dame, west facade<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>On summer and December nights this serves as the \u2018projection screen\u2019 for Chroma, a spectacular \u2018son et lumiere\u2019 show, which sets electronic music to morphing digital shapes and colours before settling down for a visual history lesson showing how the original facade was picked out in myriad bright polychromatic hues, now much faded. The projected colours are shown for several minutes, allowing observers to envision them close up.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41417\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41417\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41417 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-illuminated-to-show-original-colouring.jpg\" alt=\"Amiens' Notre-Dame illuminated to show 'original' colouring\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41417\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41417 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-illuminated-to-show-original-colouring.jpg\" alt=\"Amiens' Notre-Dame illuminated to show 'original' colouring\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-illuminated-to-show-original-colouring.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-illuminated-to-show-original-colouring-480x640.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-illuminated-to-show-original-colouring-1024x1365.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-illuminated-to-show-original-colouring-113x150.jpg 113w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-illuminated-to-show-original-colouring-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Notre-Dame-illuminated-to-show-original-colouring-1152x1536.jpg 1152w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Amiens&#8217; Notre-Dame illuminated to show &#8216;original&#8217; colouring<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Another unique feature of Amiens is its \u2018<strong>Hortillonages<\/strong>\u2019 \u2013 300 hectares of small islands irrigated by the Somme river and accessible only by boat, which are given over to market gardening and public leisure gardens. Mostly under the shade of trees, they are best described as a \u2018miniature Venice\u2019, with allotments, waterfowl and occasional waterside displays of art. A genteel hour or so can be spent navigating some of over 60 kilometres of interconnecting canals by punt-style boat accompanied by wry commentary and pithy local knowledge from the helmsman.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41415\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41415\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41415 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Les-Hortillonages.jpg\" alt=\"Amiens' Les Hortillonages\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41415\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41415 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Les-Hortillonages.jpg\" alt=\"Amiens' Les Hortillonages\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Les-Hortillonages.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Les-Hortillonages-480x360.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Les-Hortillonages-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Les-Hortillonages-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Amiens-Les-Hortillonages-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Amiens&#8217; Les Hortillonages. Image courtesy Byway Travel.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The palatial <strong>Musee de Picardie<\/strong> (Amiens is the capital of the Picardy region) could be described as a smaller counterpart to Lille\u2019s Palais des Beaux-Arts, hosting a similar range of fine art and sculpture, from archaeological collections to contemporary art. Highlights include work by the leading modernist, local boy Jean Helion and abstract neon artist Francois Morellet.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41413\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41413\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41413 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Francois-Morellet-\u2018Release-No.-9-acrylic-and-oil-on-canvas-lacquered-aluminum-neon-tubes-canvas-ribbon-at-La-Musee-Picardie.jpg\" alt=\"Fran\u00e7ois Morellet, \u2018Release No. 9\u2019, acrylic and oil on canvas, lacquered aluminum, neon tubes, canvas ribbon, at La Mus\u00e9e Picardie\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1564\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41413\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41413 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Francois-Morellet-\u2018Release-No.-9-acrylic-and-oil-on-canvas-lacquered-aluminum-neon-tubes-canvas-ribbon-at-La-Musee-Picardie.jpg\" alt=\"Fran\u00e7ois Morellet, \u2018Release No. 9\u2019, acrylic and oil on canvas, lacquered aluminum, neon tubes, canvas ribbon, at La Mus\u00e9e Picardie\" width=\"1200\" height=\"1564\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Francois-Morellet-\u2018Release-No.-9-acrylic-and-oil-on-canvas-lacquered-aluminum-neon-tubes-canvas-ribbon-at-La-Musee-Picardie.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Francois-Morellet-\u2018Release-No.-9-acrylic-and-oil-on-canvas-lacquered-aluminum-neon-tubes-canvas-ribbon-at-La-Musee-Picardie-480x626.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Francois-Morellet-\u2018Release-No.-9-acrylic-and-oil-on-canvas-lacquered-aluminum-neon-tubes-canvas-ribbon-at-La-Musee-Picardie-1024x1335.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Francois-Morellet-\u2018Release-No.-9-acrylic-and-oil-on-canvas-lacquered-aluminum-neon-tubes-canvas-ribbon-at-La-Musee-Picardie-115x150.jpg 115w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Francois-Morellet-\u2018Release-No.-9-acrylic-and-oil-on-canvas-lacquered-aluminum-neon-tubes-canvas-ribbon-at-La-Musee-Picardie-768x1001.jpg 768w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Francois-Morellet-\u2018Release-No.-9-acrylic-and-oil-on-canvas-lacquered-aluminum-neon-tubes-canvas-ribbon-at-La-Musee-Picardie-1179x1536.jpg 1179w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Fran\u00e7ois Morellet, \u2018Release No. 9\u2019, acrylic and oil on canvas, lacquered aluminum, neon tubes, canvas ribbon, at La Mus\u00e9e Picardie<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>There is also an extensive sculpture collection, including preparatory maquettes for sculptor Stephan Balkenhol\u2019s <em>L\u2019homme et sa Bou\u00e9e (Man and his Buoy)<\/em>, the final result of which, floating in the middle of the Somme, I had seen just hours earlier.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41412\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41412\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41412 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-river-Somme-Amiens-with-Stephan-Balkenhols-Lhomme-et-sa-Bouee-at-right.jpg\" alt=\"The river Somme, Amiens, with Stephan Balkenhol's 'L\u2019homme et sa Bou\u00e9e' at right\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41412\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41412 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-river-Somme-Amiens-with-Stephan-Balkenhols-Lhomme-et-sa-Bouee-at-right.jpg\" alt=\"The river Somme, Amiens, with Stephan Balkenhol's 'L\u2019homme et sa Bou\u00e9e' at right\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-river-Somme-Amiens-with-Stephan-Balkenhols-Lhomme-et-sa-Bouee-at-right.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-river-Somme-Amiens-with-Stephan-Balkenhols-Lhomme-et-sa-Bouee-at-right-480x360.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-river-Somme-Amiens-with-Stephan-Balkenhols-Lhomme-et-sa-Bouee-at-right-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-river-Somme-Amiens-with-Stephan-Balkenhols-Lhomme-et-sa-Bouee-at-right-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-river-Somme-Amiens-with-Stephan-Balkenhols-Lhomme-et-sa-Bouee-at-right-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>The river Somme, Amiens, with Stephan Balkenhol&#8217;s &#8216;L\u2019homme et sa Bou\u00e9e&#8217; at right<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41410\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41410\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41410 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/One-of-the-numerous-reminders-of-Jule-Vernes-work-dotted-around-Amiens.jpg\" alt=\"One of the numerous reminders of Jule Verne's work dotted around Amiens\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41410\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41410 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/One-of-the-numerous-reminders-of-Jule-Vernes-work-dotted-around-Amiens.jpg\" alt=\"One of the numerous reminders of Jule Verne's work dotted around Amiens\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/One-of-the-numerous-reminders-of-Jule-Vernes-work-dotted-around-Amiens.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/One-of-the-numerous-reminders-of-Jule-Vernes-work-dotted-around-Amiens-480x360.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/One-of-the-numerous-reminders-of-Jule-Vernes-work-dotted-around-Amiens-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/One-of-the-numerous-reminders-of-Jule-Vernes-work-dotted-around-Amiens-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/One-of-the-numerous-reminders-of-Jule-Vernes-work-dotted-around-Amiens-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>One of the numerous reminders of Jule Verne&#8217;s work dotted around Amiens<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Another local, cherished beyond all others, is the writer <strong>Jules Verne<\/strong>, who moved to the town to write his extraordinarily imaginative fictional voyages such as <em>Around the World in Eighty Days<\/em>, <em>Journey to the Centre of the Earth<\/em> and <em>20,000 Leagues Under the Sea<\/em>. His house is open to visitors, as is the nearby Cirque Jules Verne, which he established and which mounts regular theatrical shows. Statues and commemorative signage in the man\u2019s honour are dotted around the town.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Compiegne<\/strong><br \/>\nAnother race along train tracks across open country brought me to <strong>Compiegne<\/strong>, a small, trim town on the River Oise, sans cathedral or giant museums, but with a chateau to match any other.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41421\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41421\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41421 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-Emperors-Chamber-at-the-Chateau-Compiegne.jpg\" alt=\"The Emperor's Chamber at the Ch\u00e2teau Compi\u00e8gne\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41421\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41421 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-Emperors-Chamber-at-the-Chateau-Compiegne.jpg\" alt=\"The Emperor's Chamber at the Ch\u00e2teau Compi\u00e8gne\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-Emperors-Chamber-at-the-Chateau-Compiegne.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-Emperors-Chamber-at-the-Chateau-Compiegne-480x360.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-Emperors-Chamber-at-the-Chateau-Compiegne-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-Emperors-Chamber-at-the-Chateau-Compiegne-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/The-Emperors-Chamber-at-the-Chateau-Compiegne-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>The Emperor&#8217;s Chamber at the Ch\u00e2teau Compi\u00e8gne<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Built by Louis XV and XVI, the <strong>Chateau de Compiegne<\/strong> was remodelled by Napoleons I and III as a centre for court life and the exercise of power. Kings and emperors favoured the town for its proximity to the For\u00eat de Compi\u00e8gne, which provided a playground for recreational hunting and horse riding. Napoleon\u2019s favour for his famous Empress Josephine extended to cutting a five-kilometre swathe through the forest to a viewing platform, from which she could admire the chateau. Nowadays visitors can admire it from within as well as without, with its sumptuous imperial chambers and art collection.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41419\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41419\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41419 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-du-Cloitre.jpg\" alt=\"La Mus\u00e9e du Clo\u00eetre\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41419\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41419 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-du-Cloitre.jpg\" alt=\"La Mus\u00e9e du Clo\u00eetre\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-du-Cloitre.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-du-Cloitre-480x360.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-du-Cloitre-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-du-Cloitre-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/La-Musee-du-Cloitre-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>La Mus\u00e9e du Clo\u00eetre<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Compiegne is founded on the abbey of Saint Corneille, which these days is home to the <strong>Musee du Cloitre<\/strong> (Cloister Museum), housing religious art and sculpture dating back to the 13th century. When wandering around the abbey\u2019s cloister, you can appreciate being in a quiet town, where noisy crowds are replaced by a monastic hush.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41418\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41418\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41418 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/An-exquisite-16th-century-ivory-Astrolab-Quadrant-an-astronomical-instrument-on-display-at-the-Musee-Antoine-Vivenel.jpg\" alt=\"An exquisite 16th-century ivory Astrolab Quadrant, an astronomical instrument, on display at the Mus\u00e9e Antoine Vivenel\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41418\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41418 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/An-exquisite-16th-century-ivory-Astrolab-Quadrant-an-astronomical-instrument-on-display-at-the-Musee-Antoine-Vivenel.jpg\" alt=\"An exquisite 16th-century ivory Astrolab Quadrant, an astronomical instrument, on display at the Mus\u00e9e Antoine Vivenel\" width=\"1200\" height=\"900\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/An-exquisite-16th-century-ivory-Astrolab-Quadrant-an-astronomical-instrument-on-display-at-the-Musee-Antoine-Vivenel.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/An-exquisite-16th-century-ivory-Astrolab-Quadrant-an-astronomical-instrument-on-display-at-the-Musee-Antoine-Vivenel-480x360.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/An-exquisite-16th-century-ivory-Astrolab-Quadrant-an-astronomical-instrument-on-display-at-the-Musee-Antoine-Vivenel-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/An-exquisite-16th-century-ivory-Astrolab-Quadrant-an-astronomical-instrument-on-display-at-the-Musee-Antoine-Vivenel-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/An-exquisite-16th-century-ivory-Astrolab-Quadrant-an-astronomical-instrument-on-display-at-the-Musee-Antoine-Vivenel-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>An exquisite 16th-century ivory Astrolab Quadrant, an astronomical instrument, on display at the Mus\u00e9e Antoine Vivenel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A ticket to the Musee du Cloitre includes admission to the <strong>Mus\u00e9e Antoine Vivenel<\/strong>, named after its architect-collector founder and a centre for the study and display of crafted artefacts from prehistory to the mid- 19th century.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_41420\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-41420\" style=\"width: 1200px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41420 lazyload\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" data-src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Florence-Dessuyer-The-Swing-mixed-media-on-canvas.jpg\" alt=\"Florence Dessuyer, 'The Swing', mixed media on canvas\" width=\"1200\" height=\"784\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-41420\" class=\"wp-caption-text\"><noscript><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-41420 lazyload\" src=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Florence-Dessuyer-The-Swing-mixed-media-on-canvas.jpg\" alt=\"Florence Dessuyer, 'The Swing', mixed media on canvas\" width=\"1200\" height=\"784\" srcset=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Florence-Dessuyer-The-Swing-mixed-media-on-canvas.jpg 1200w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Florence-Dessuyer-The-Swing-mixed-media-on-canvas-480x314.jpg 480w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Florence-Dessuyer-The-Swing-mixed-media-on-canvas-1024x669.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Florence-Dessuyer-The-Swing-mixed-media-on-canvas-150x98.jpg 150w, https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/01\/Florence-Dessuyer-The-Swing-mixed-media-on-canvas-768x502.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><\/noscript> <em>Florence Dessuyer, &#8216;The Swing&#8217;, mixed media on canvas, on show at the Eglise Saint-Pierre des Minimes at the time of visiting.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I also chanced upon the Romanesque <strong>Eglise Saint-Pierre des Minimes<\/strong>, created in 1601, which is now a municipal space for temporary art exhibitions, which was at the time a collection of Florence Dessuyer&#8217;s large mixed-media canvases. Once again, under its airy, stone arches the pace was calm and perfect for enjoying art without distraction.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Chantilly <\/strong><br \/>\nCompiegne is a short train ride to Paris, where my journey north to London and on to Edinburgh was to begin. But there was still time on my itinerary for a brief stop at <strong>Chantilly<\/strong>, also on the River Oise, famous for its race course, lace (of course) and another grand chateau. This one was built in the 19th century by the son of France\u2019s last king, Louis Philippe, whose collection of masterpieces (the second largest of antique paintings in France after the Louvre) is displayed in its opulent suites. As I arrived in Edinburgh later that evening, it was strange to think that that very afternoon I had still been enjoying that beautiful and cultured region of France.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/trip.byway.travel\/journey-guide\/54f5c4ea-8987-4f32-b241-721da29d303e\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><strong>My trip<\/strong><\/a> <em>[click to view]<\/em> was facilitated by London-based <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.byway.travel\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Byway Travel<\/a><\/strong>, which specialises in eco-friendly, \u2018slow\u2019 travel. The team at Byway works with clients to tailor trips to their interests, for example a focus on art, with recommendations on each city or area to be visited. They also set up a small WhatsApp group to provide additional assistance.<\/p>\n<p><em><a href=\"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/our-friends-in-the-north\/\">This article also appears in November 2022 issues of &#8216;Artmag&#8217; magazine<\/a>. Words David White, edited for &#8216;Artmag&#8217; magazine by Ian Sclater. Images David White. French-language diacritics\/accents have been omitted from the text, to avoid conflicts with the magazine&#8217;s and website&#8217;s font-set.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>David White explores the Hauts-de-France region the \u2018slow\u2019 way.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":101036,"featured_media":41396,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"default","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"default","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[46],"tags":[2185,2180,2187,2186,2182,2183,2184,2181],"topic":[255],"class_list":["post-41394","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-art-travel","tag-amiens","tag-byway","tag-chantilly","tag-compiegne","tag-eurostar","tag-lille","tag-st-pancras","tag-travel","topic-travel"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/41394","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/101036"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=41394"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/41394\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/41396"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=41394"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=41394"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=41394"},{"taxonomy":"topic","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/artmag.co.uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/topic?post=41394"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}